Always evolving, but consistent. Since the advent of dynasties chronograph, functionality, readability and style of the unity of opposites shaped its appearance looks like, or even the classic layout remains the same over the years.
Turning “chronograph”, numerous images come to mind, but I believe most people will stay in the imagination of use and Dubois-Depraz schematic ETA movement and other suppliers catalog: hour, minute and chronograph seconds central operation hours lap (sometimes), minutes and small seconds lap circle separated on three sides.
The first generation Tiger Heuer chronograph Heuer Autavia
Design chronograph limited by various conditions, but its derivative changes than any other type of watches favorably. Chronograph design to create the original intention of the purpose of each is different, but they must follow the same principle, it is about “legibility” to “highlight the brand DNA and fads” above. For this reason, a particularly challenging chronograph designer, which is also a great time collectors.
Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref.5975 multiscale
Generally, chronograph with two very different functions: record running time and display elapsed time. In addition to the conventional time functions, the chronograph is equipped with independent pointer, you can start, stop and reset. Still further, some of the chronograph also have other complex functions, such as double-tracking needle and flyback chronograph second hand. But even if the parts and tick control to a minimum, for additional information on this narrow and crowded dial is still a heavy burden.
De Bethune DB29 Maxichrono Chronograph
It should be said, in chronograph design, the primary limitation comes from the movement under the dial – Movement predetermined size, function, basic ratio and display position. With few exceptions, the above said is absolutely valid, particularly the spacing of each lap and the central gear and dial layout ratio thus set. Chronograph movement variety, but today the vast majority are based movement (primarily ETA 7750 and ETA 2894) variants. Such structured strict architectural elements, only minimal watches can break through the restrictions, all pointers are installed in the center of De Bethune DB29 gear Maxichrono chronograph is one example.
Louis Moinet Compteur de Tierces, all forerunner of the modern chronograph
But how to specify information? Nicholas Rieussec timer rely ink “pointer”; the first chronograph Compteur de Tierces by Louis Moinet hand, was originally designed to help build astronomical observations, to follow norms clock, the second hand in the center, larger units (division ) is divided into both sides. In other words, the original chronograph design to solve the basic problem, throughout the 19th century pocket watches followed the same pattern, but the degree of retouching dial more different.
Tag Heuer Mikrograph stopwatch, timing accuracy of up to 1/100 sec. 1916
When the first-generation chronograph (1913 Longines and Breitling 1916) published, the situation becomes more interesting. The smaller the space available is limited, and details of the space between the opposition more prominent. Longines and Breitling chronograph choose to cut the outline of the elements, sub dial restrained low-key as possible get rid of unnecessary tick marks. This is the decade since then, Patek Philippe and other watchmakers follow the pattern: the priority watch design, is intended to show the strength of the firm, rather than for practical purposes. It with a pocket stopwatch, such as the 1916 original TAG Heuer Tiger Mikrograph compared, we can see a clear difference.
During this period, it began to rapidly replace pocket watches. Some companies will simply redo the watch, making it easy to wear, it is natural that these transitional watches pocket watch keeps more functional appearance – the original clear dial and dense orbital seconds scale ring ( “Doctor watch “with additional pulse meter scale, somewhat stylish, is an exception). Even watch company started to develop specifications watches chronograph movement, this compromise may also wish to choose one of the default. Until the 1930s, the chronograph designed to gradually become more mature.
Supply and increased demand for professional users become the driving force to solve design problems, the former accompanied by lower prices, while the latter mainly from the pilots and the military, the mid-1930s, government procurement for the watchmaking industry had a tremendous impact. Chronograph is as a tool (instead pastime) is acquired, and thus the timing function to become the core of the design. That time the rapid development of aircraft design, with enclosed cockpit quickly filled with unprecedented sophisticated instrumentation, for chronograph design, in fact, has a ready-made templates to follow.
Tag Heuer Heuer Flieger Chronograph
Tag Heuer Heuer Flieger Chronograph is a good example. This watch produced in 1935, Luminous black dial with white luminescent hands and markers, highlighting the simple design and excellent legibility of the (coin fringes equally compelling case). At the same time, the industry there are more complex, more expensive, specially designed for military purposes watch, such as Omega and Lemania 13CH 15CH series.
If the 1930s and preparations for war affected the chronograph production, then the Second World War witnessed the Swiss watchmaker prospects for the future. In 1942, Breitling launched with patented annular slider Chronomat mechanical chronograph technology even more intense color. This watch but created specifically for the new world of postwar scientists, engineers and entrepreneurs to create a design. Later, the success of the series and also Navitimer flight annular slider inseparable. Of course, in contrast, Chronomat even earlier decade.
1963, often seen as a modern culture out of the post-war depression years, the year belongs to the Beatles, is Alfa Romeo Giulia TZ, belonging to Martin Luther King, the year also witnessed two landmark the advent thoroughly “modern” chronograph: Tiger Howe Yakalaila and Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.
Omega Speedmaster replica 57 Chronograph
From the 1930s, Omega and Tag Heuer start, different genres developing at different speeds. In 1957, the classic Omega Speedmaster chronograph available. Speedmaster design looks too complicated, a conservative retreat, but has also become one of 1950’s most forward-looking template design. Calera and Daytona chronograph design represents the ultimate peak. Both watches are designed to use a specific method, born out of the rules of that era restrictions, case and dial by an external vendor (existing material designed to promote, after all, the cost of innovation is much higher than it is now that time), and Valjoux-based movement as a starting point.
Calera and Daytona emphasize basic information transfer streamline aesthetics. The former rail scale ring is moved to the inside of the dial flange, eliminating speed meter scale; the latter will speed meter scale placed on the outer ring, just as Omega Speedmaster. Calera and Daytona disk layout more open, calm and modern. The chronograph watch is designed to establish a template, whenever too hasty or deep chase fashion, which is the brand back to the basic reference point in the past.
Lange Datograph, regarded as the best modern design of a chronograph
Over the past decade, the 1960s retro wave of a wave after wave, which is enough to prove that decade does provide a worthy retained complex (design and function) for the watchmaking industry. More interestingly, the designers seem to have mastered the details of retouching, –Christophe brand heritage and aesthetic balance between Behling intention to Calera as a template for the TAG Heuer Tiger design work is a good example.
Even those brands for inspiration back in history, you can see a similar balance from their products. In recent years, most notably the two chronograph comes Lange and Patek Philippe Datograph 175th anniversary Ref.5975 (in the 1950s-inspired), both for balance and attention to detail 50 years ago Tiger TAG Heuer, Longines Rolex and designer’s work can be described as the same strain. Renowned designer Eric Giroud had made, he most want to participate in the redesigned 2003 Chronograph is the advent of Tissot PRS 516, it was a chance to re-touch the hearts of the best.
